OK this does not apply Grid Tied System, just battery systems. To make life easier and safer for you here are a few wiring tips. Use Marine wire and cable. Marine wire and cable comes in 3 basic types.
Marine cable is a bit different than power and lighting wire used in a building. Short version it is superior in every way. Main points are:
There are two downsides to using Marine wire and cable. It is a bit more expensive, and extra care is needed to terminate it properly due to the finer wire stranding. The best way and tip I can give you is most of you do not have the skill or tools to terminate any wire properly. Not meant as an insult, but the tooling is expensive and unless you are in the biz cannot afford a thousand dollar tool to terminate cable for a one-time job. Having said that unless you order the cable online, most any RV or Marine shop has the tooling to terminate the cables. Even many Marine Online suppliers like Blue Sea will terminate cable for you to your specifications. Other sources are Golf Cart shops, Ham Radio Outlet, Grainger, and electrical contractors.
I save the best tip for last and maybe the most important, that is the use of a Anti-Oxidant compounds on both the Wire Skinners and Contact Mating Surfaces. The Wire Skinner is the portion of the wire you strip the insulation from. You want to use a very lite coat of a Anti-Oxidant. Apply it to both Wire Skinners and Mating surfaces and make sure you apply ample torque whit appropriate locking hardware. If you have the option use two-hole terminals vs single-hole terminals. As for the Anti-Oxidant the best just happens to be one of the least expensive and the only brand utilities allow to be used made by San Chem called "NO-OX-ID A SPECIAL". Use not other. All it takes is a very lite coat and be sure to coat all exposed surfaces. Once applied you will never have a corrosion problem. Utilities have 50 year old installation in salt air and never have had a problem. It is cheap and a small tube will last you a lifetime. Works on copper, aluminum or any metals or dissimilar metals. Model Electric Train and electric slot car folks take note, apply a light coat on the track and you will never have another problem. Buff connections lightly with Green Scotch-Brite to make shiny, and apply a light thin coat. Be sure to coat all exposed surfaces of the Battery Term Post and terminals. Use lead plated terminals without inspection hole on Battery Term Post.
- Battery; 4 AWG to 4/0 AWG single conductor
- Primary; 18 AWG to 6 AWG single conductor
- Duplex/Triplex; 18 AWG to 6 AWG with 2 or 3 conductors in a common sheath.
Marine cable is a bit different than power and lighting wire used in a building. Short version it is superior in every way. Main points are:
- Cable insulation for wire made for home wiring has a temperature rating of of 60, 75, and 90 degree Celsius. Marine is 90 degree which means is can handle more current and heat although with voltage drop limitations you really cannot take advantage of that except on short runs. Example 12 AWG THHN, RHH etc is limited to 20 amps, Marine is 25 amps as an example.
- Marine cable insulation is rated for High Temperature, Wet/Damp, Salt, Corrosive, Oil, and Gas environments.
- Marine cable insulation is much easier to work with because it uses synthetic rubber vs thermoset plastic and rubber. God forbid if there is a fire, Marine cable produces less smoke, less corrosive gasses, and self extinguishes when the heat source is removed.
- Wires are tinned copper. This makes the wire more resistant to corrosion from salt air, acid battery gasses, and fuel vapors.
- Marine wire uses flexible stranding types aka finer strands (Class H). This makes it much easier to work with and the big benefit is less prone to wire fatigue from movement and vibration. Take note RV users, it is easier to route through tight bends, and resist breaking off from constant movement and vibration.
There are two downsides to using Marine wire and cable. It is a bit more expensive, and extra care is needed to terminate it properly due to the finer wire stranding. The best way and tip I can give you is most of you do not have the skill or tools to terminate any wire properly. Not meant as an insult, but the tooling is expensive and unless you are in the biz cannot afford a thousand dollar tool to terminate cable for a one-time job. Having said that unless you order the cable online, most any RV or Marine shop has the tooling to terminate the cables. Even many Marine Online suppliers like Blue Sea will terminate cable for you to your specifications. Other sources are Golf Cart shops, Ham Radio Outlet, Grainger, and electrical contractors.
I save the best tip for last and maybe the most important, that is the use of a Anti-Oxidant compounds on both the Wire Skinners and Contact Mating Surfaces. The Wire Skinner is the portion of the wire you strip the insulation from. You want to use a very lite coat of a Anti-Oxidant. Apply it to both Wire Skinners and Mating surfaces and make sure you apply ample torque whit appropriate locking hardware. If you have the option use two-hole terminals vs single-hole terminals. As for the Anti-Oxidant the best just happens to be one of the least expensive and the only brand utilities allow to be used made by San Chem called "NO-OX-ID A SPECIAL". Use not other. All it takes is a very lite coat and be sure to coat all exposed surfaces. Once applied you will never have a corrosion problem. Utilities have 50 year old installation in salt air and never have had a problem. It is cheap and a small tube will last you a lifetime. Works on copper, aluminum or any metals or dissimilar metals. Model Electric Train and electric slot car folks take note, apply a light coat on the track and you will never have another problem. Buff connections lightly with Green Scotch-Brite to make shiny, and apply a light thin coat. Be sure to coat all exposed surfaces of the Battery Term Post and terminals. Use lead plated terminals without inspection hole on Battery Term Post.
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