Garden Solar lights help

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  • Utdfederation
    Junior Member
    • Jun 2020
    • 11

    Garden Solar lights help

    Hi there
    My name is Brett, i am looking for help with my garden solar lights project please.
    i purchased 30x1.2v garden decking lights from a company called woodside, who manufacture in garden solar panels and lighting.

    Now before we go any further i have indeed contacted them requesting help in my project, but they were unwilling to assit me, due to the fact i wanted to modify them.
    which is why i am here seeking advice or help on the matter.

    As i stated, i purchased 30x1.2v decking lights, but i do not want them actually in my decking and i have placed all 30 of them in my gardens surrounding wall.
    the problem i am having is they dont seem to hold the charge enough for the lights to last all night.
    So i modified them, i replaced the standard 80mAh batteries with a single AAA 800 mAh battery, that seemed to do the trick for a short while, but they started to flicker and go off which i assumed the batteries were not charging fast enough so i again modified the lighting by purchasing bigger solar panels (30 in all)
    they were replaced with 30x 2v poly smart panels,which i got off ebay.

    Now please allow me to explain what i did....

    i got a flat piece of OSB board and cut out holes for the new solar cells to sit over, then glued all the news cells on top and waited for the glue to dry.
    i then flipped the board over to reveal the underside of the cells.
    i then soldered all the newly extended wires to the new solar cells in numbered order.
    then the other end of the wires i soldered to the solar side on the light boards.
    i then placed the OSB board with the new panels on top of my shed so they all have a clear view of the sky/sun
    for some reason though the batteries dont charge fast enough as they start to flicker then go off after only 2 or so hours.

    which is why i am here to seek advice in how i can get all 30 lights to come on and stay on for the whole night.

    any help would be greatfully appreciated.
    Thank you kindly
  • bob-n
    Solar Fanatic
    • Aug 2019
    • 569

    #2
    Brett, Welcome to the forum.

    From what I can tell, you took an existing light system, put in larger batteries and put in larger solar panels. It sounds like you did not replace the electronics that charges the batteries from the solar panels, however. If that's the case, it could mean that the charger built into the system is only large enough for the old batteries and you're not taking advantage of the larger panels.
    7kW Roof PV, APsystems QS1 micros, Nissan Leaf EV

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    • Utdfederation
      Junior Member
      • Jun 2020
      • 11

      #3
      When you say charger do you mean the YX8018 4 pin chip

      Comment

      • chrisski
        Solar Fanatic
        • May 2020
        • 553

        #4
        First figure out the voltage and amps that your LEDs consume. A multimeter can tell you that if you have no ratings. I don’t know what a YX8018 4 Pin Chip does.

        There’s some sort of Charge controller after the panels to regulate the battery charging. Many different types to match batteries.

        If you have a 12 volt system, I would recommend getting a charge controller to handle your battery.

        LEDs don’t draw hardly any light, but the battery you mentioned has less than one amp hour, which to me I think you need something much larger. I think in car sized deep cycle batteries which are 100 ah at 12 volts, and that should provide you enough power overnight. keep in mind this Lead Acid Battery can’t be discharged less than 50%.

        I Have LED grow lights which 19 watts lights a 2 foot by 1 foot tray. In Arizona in the winter, I’d need them on for 13 hours. At 19 watts, I would need to provide them 1.5 amps an hour X 13, so I would need 21 Amp Hours at 12 volts to power these LEDs. So, with one of the car batteries I mentioned, I would be able to have two of my grow lamps, provided my battery got fully charged every day. I would need two, but more likely three 100 watt panels to put enough power into each of those batteries for the limited number of charging hours. Even though the sun may be up 11 hours, I only get five hours of charging time in the winter.

        The example I gave was for LED lights for growing. If you’re using them for illumination only, your power requirements will not be anything close to what I put above.

        Comment

        • bob-n
          Solar Fanatic
          • Aug 2019
          • 569

          #5
          Yes. The YX8018 seems to be a really economical LED driver that also manages charging. You can read more about it here:
          YX8018 is a 4-pin integrated circuit for driving solar powered garden LED lights and is found...
          7kW Roof PV, APsystems QS1 micros, Nissan Leaf EV

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          • Utdfederation
            Junior Member
            • Jun 2020
            • 11

            #6
            Ok going a different route.
            i have a 50w solar panel and a couple of 12v batteries.
            if i hook those 12v batteries upto my charge controller tjat should charge the 12v batteries.
            so what i was thinking was would i be able to hook all the 1.2v lights to the 12v batteries?
            So effectively remove all 30 batteries from all the lights then hook them all into 1 and onto the 12v batteries, but what would i need between 12v and 1.2v to allow me to run all the lights.
            hope you follow whst im trying to do here.

            Comment

            • bob-n
              Solar Fanatic
              • Aug 2019
              • 569

              #7
              Yes, you can do it.

              To power an LED itself, you need approximately 3.5V. Some are 3V, some are 4V, but it is roughly in that range. Your garden lights start with a 1.2V battery and boost the voltage to 3.5V with a circuit called a boost converter. The YX8018 and a few other parts in the light do the boosting. So you'll need to keep all of that.

              The garden light has terminals for a 1.2V battery. That is the input to the boost converter. You have a 12V battery. To get from 12V to 1.2V, you have two choices: either regulate down or connect a number of garden lights in series. Connecting them in series will be much easier.

              I suggest wiring 8 garden lights in series. Remove all of the 1.2V batteries and wire the battery terminals of each garden light in a loop, as shown below. For simplicity, I'm only showing 4 lights. You will want to have 8 to 10 lights in a string, powered by the 12V battery.
              light.png
              7kW Roof PV, APsystems QS1 micros, Nissan Leaf EV

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              • bob-n
                Solar Fanatic
                • Aug 2019
                • 569

                #8
                It just occurred to me that you have 30 lights. You'll probably want 3 strings of 10 lights. Connect the top of each string of lights to the + terminal of the 12V battery and the bottom of each string of lights to the - terminal of the 12V battery.
                7kW Roof PV, APsystems QS1 micros, Nissan Leaf EV

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                • Utdfederation
                  Junior Member
                  • Jun 2020
                  • 11

                  #9
                  So the + & - of the lights do they not go into the load side of the controller or do they simply just connect to the 12v battery?

                  sorry for keep asking.
                  just dont wanna blow any boards

                  Comment

                  • Utdfederation
                    Junior Member
                    • Jun 2020
                    • 11

                    #10
                    Forgot to ask.
                    what type of timer would you suggest to put between the live side of the lighting circuit so i can manually set on and off

                    Comment

                    • bob-n
                      Solar Fanatic
                      • Aug 2019
                      • 569

                      #11
                      Leave the lights wired as they came from the store. Remove the battery. Only wire to the battery socket per the sketch in my previous post. You can even leave the tiny solar panel wired in place.

                      Good question about timers. I'm not sure what to suggest. I'd look on ebay, amazon, and other places that sell small electronics boards.
                      7kW Roof PV, APsystems QS1 micros, Nissan Leaf EV

                      Comment

                      • bob-n
                        Solar Fanatic
                        • Aug 2019
                        • 569

                        #12

                        This came up in a search on ebay. It looks possible.
                        7kW Roof PV, APsystems QS1 micros, Nissan Leaf EV

                        Comment

                        • bcroe
                          Solar Fanatic
                          • Jan 2012
                          • 5203

                          #13
                          Originally posted by bob-n
                          Yes. The YX8018 seems to be a really economical LED driver that
                          also manages charging. You can read more about it here:
                          That device looks like it will wipe out your AM radio with interference. Bruce Roe

                          Comment

                          • littleharbor
                            Solar Fanatic
                            • Jan 2016
                            • 1998

                            #14
                            How much wire are you running between the battery and the farthest light?
                            2.2kw Suntech mono, Classic 200, NEW Trace SW4024

                            Comment

                            • Mike90250
                              Moderator
                              • May 2009
                              • 16020

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Utdfederation
                              Forgot to ask.
                              what type of timer would you suggest to put between the live side of the lighting circuit so i can manually set on and off
                              If you use a timer, you don't need to manually switch it.


                              You can also get a charge controller that will switch a load on and off at night, for night lighting, works by the voltage from the PV panel, when it's dark, it turns the lights on.
                              Morningstar's SunLight™ solar lighting controller combines the SunSaver design with an advanced microcontroller for automatic lighting control functions.


                              However. This all may not work, because wiring LED drivers in series, sometimes does not work. It all depends on how well the individual drivers and LED's are matched. If some consume more current, they will be starved because the driver needing the least current in the string, won't let more thru for the others. They may be dim, blink, or not even light.
                              Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
                              || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
                              || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

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