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That's at least partly because of how the dehumidifier works. It reduces the temp. of the air going though it to below that air's dew point temp. just like an air conditioner will do if the return air's dew point temp. is above the A/C's delivery temp. In one very real sense common dehumidifiers are mini A/C units.
Dehumidifiers will also help keep the house air from becoming "clammy" as can often happen when A/C units are oversized to the design load or improperly designed for humid climates. They do that by lowering the air's dew point.Last edited by J.P.M.; 03-09-2022, 01:39 AM.Comment
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Seems the electricity used running the whole house dehumidifier would not offset the reduced A/C demand all that much but I'm sure there are areas and climates where it would pay off. We set our A/C at 80 and only down to 78 if we have visitors staying with us. We pull several gallons of water per day from our condensate drain but only during July-August. It's too dry here other times of the A/C season to get much moisture dripping off the coils.Dave W. Gilbert AZ
6.63kW grid-tie ownerComment
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A whole house dehumidifier uses around 0.6kWh. My AC uses around 5kWh. I am guessing 5-6 hours dehumidifying a day will reduce the summer AC usage by a couple of hours a day in Florida. In the SE using a dehumidifier is highly recommend but hardly anyone actually has them installed.
You can set your AC at 80f because there is very little humidity in AZ. What humidity is present is most likely getting dragged out by your AC. If you set teh AC at 80f in Florida you humidity would probably be 65-75%.
Last edited by mjs020294; 03-09-2022, 12:11 PM.Comment
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Would that be 0.6 kW and 5 kW ?
Before getting into a discussion about residential HVAC and psychrometrics, it's easier to take someone seriously when they first get the basics right. It also helps neophytes and new students of the subject who might get more confused than they already are.
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Agree. Our indoor humidity in the summer (with normal A/C cycling) hovers around 35%. The outdoor humidity in the worst of the summer can be in the single digits such as in June when it's 115-120F. My son lives in Boca Raton so I've experienced that humidity in June too.
It was mentioned above about old pool pumps and A/C units. Replacing a perfectly good unit with a better efficiency model results in a long payback compared to not paying the high replacement cost up front but if they need replaced, then by all means go for a variable speed solution in both cases.
Dave W. Gilbert AZ
6.63kW grid-tie ownerComment
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No it means if the units run for an hour they will use 0.6kWh and 5kWH. If you can't mentally flip between KW and kWh I suggest you go an see a good neurosurgeon.
You knew exactly what I meant you pompous smug prick. Its not just this post its a pattern with you. I would expect no less from the type of person that usually gets involved with a HOA. Its not a website for retired electricians; its a website to discuss solar in general.Last edited by mjs020294; 03-09-2022, 12:58 PM.Comment
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A correctly sized AC system will remove the proper amount of water, without the wasted power (and heat load) of another AC compressor and fans. You are, by all means, entitled to do what you suggest, but a dehumidifier is not always a good solution/replacement. there are plenty of charts & tables for sizing an AC system for heat loads and humidityPowerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-ListerComment
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Rather than first using what's probably about the most expensive way to offset an electric bill, I'd suggest the first, best and simplest way to reduce an electric bill is to not use the electricity in the first place. Sane and probably more cost effective conservation measures come next.
Since use reduction and sane conservation measures cost less and save more in a relative sense, by the time they are taken (even though PV costs have dropped quite a bit over the last few years), those use reduction and conservation measures will have reduced the cost effectiveness of meeting a smaller electric bill with what's usually more expensive alternate energy methods, usually PV. Not using electricity will change the calculus of the PV economics.
Even though PV has come down in price, if cost effective use of assets is part of an energy use reduction plan, PV is usually far down the list of measures to implement.
Unfortunately, turning off an unused light doesn't seem to have the same panache and probably doesn't impart the same level of accomplishment as throwing an array on a roof, but it is more cost effective in terms of assets expended/return on investment. It just isn't as sexy.
But in this society of too much consumption and not enough thought about much of anything, energy conservation is the unwanted stepchild.Comment
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