Building Reserve and Using KWH

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  • bcroe
    Solar Fanatic
    • Jan 2012
    • 5203

    #76
    I used to worry about all HVAC functions being centralized, both the propane furnace and
    the air conditioner relied on that furnace blower. One failure there and I was SOL. That
    problem is gone, with 4 mini split zones, backed up by some substantial resistance heaters
    if ever needed. So the blower is never triggered by the central plant anymore.

    BUT I have an electrostatic air filter I would like operated regularly. And a little air mixing
    between zones could be useful. A brand new blower motor is in place, and the solar PV
    provides plenty of energy to run the motor.

    SO a new function is tagged onto the central furnace. The blower may be run for a set
    time (12 to 60 minutes), and then paused a set time (12 to 120 minutes). This repeats,
    unless set to OFF.

    Here is the control, which just attaches to the 24VAC thermostat circuit. Next winter will
    check it out. Bruce Roe


    blowerF.JPGblowerR.JPG
    Last edited by bcroe; 08-27-2019, 09:53 AM.

    Comment

    • bcroe
      Solar Fanatic
      • Jan 2012
      • 5203

      #77
      Originally posted by bcroe
      direct burial 4/0-4/0-2/0 aluminum cable

      The question then is how to terminate it. Could it come up through conduit, to an
      outside box, then convert to smaller copper to the building?
      I see some things like this AMP B1-T which is rated to connect 4/0 aluminum to
      copper. Drive that wedge in I guess. There are also some big rated larger versions
      of this split bolt available. If these work, what is the prep process and anti oxident to
      use in the process?

      Soldering aluminum can be done, except it may not work for big wire. Comments?

      These wires will not be used at anything like current capacity, the idea is oversize
      to control loss over a long run. Bruce Roe

      40splice.JPG

      Comment

      • Ampster
        Solar Fanatic
        • Jun 2017
        • 3650

        #78
        Originally posted by bcroe

        I see some things like this AMP B1-T which is rated to connect 4/0 aluminum to
        copper. Drive that wedge in I guess. There are also some big rated larger versions
        of this split bolt available. If these work, what is the prep process and anti oxident to
        use in the process?
        I would use a split bolt because I wouldn't trust a wedge to stay under various temperature changes. . If the copper and aluminum are fresh just cover them with antioxident. I use a product called NoAlox. Often available at Home Centers under Ideal or Gardner Bender brands. Electrical supply houses carry it too.
        9 kW solar, 42kWh LFP storage. EV owner since 2012

        Comment

        • foo1bar
          Solar Fanatic
          • Aug 2014
          • 1833

          #79
          Originally posted by bcroe
          These wires will not be used at anything like current capacity, the idea is oversize to control loss over a long run. Bruce Roe
          The POCO here uses something similar to what you see if you search for "Polaris IT-250". The version they used had 4 ports, and was more water-tight I think. But since you're going to be above ground (theirs was underground), and only doing a simple size change, not branching, the IT-250 or ISR-250 are probably more appropriate.

          I've also seen description in this forum of a crimped-on "pin terminal" to change sizes to fit into a breaker's input. So that might be an option - or a crimped on reducer to change sizes.

          If you go with a split bolt, I would make sure it's rated for aluminum.

          I don't know the other thing you have in the picture. But I think you're right to make sure you understand the proper way to use them before you use it.

          Comment

          • bcroe
            Solar Fanatic
            • Jan 2012
            • 5203

            #80
            Originally posted by foo1bar
            The POCO here uses something similar to what you see if you search for "Polaris IT-250". The version they used had 4 ports, and was more water-tight I think. But since you're going to be above ground (theirs was underground), and only doing a simple size change, not branching, the IT-250 or ISR-250 are probably more appropriate.

            If you go with a split bolt, I would make sure it's rated for aluminum. .
            Thanks, there are split bolts rated for 4/0 AL. With 2 different sizes above ground,
            I am leaning toward split bolt. Bruce Roe

            Comment

            • azdave
              Moderator
              • Oct 2014
              • 765

              #81
              Originally posted by bcroe
              ...I have an electrostatic air filter I would like operated regularly. And a little air mixing
              between zones could be useful.
              Maybe I'm misunderstanding your mod but isn't that just like using the "circulation" setting on the fan selection switch? My thermostat has that feature and it randomly turns only the blower on and off throughout the day to keep the air feeling fresh and the filters collecting dust. You aren't still running an old, round, gold-colored Honeywell with the mercury tilt switch are you?

              Dave W. Gilbert AZ
              6.63kW grid-tie owner

              Comment

              • foo1bar
                Solar Fanatic
                • Aug 2014
                • 1833

                #82
                Originally posted by bcroe
                Thanks, there are split bolts rated for 4/0 AL.
                There are - I'm just not seeing that they're any cheaper than the screw-down splices like IT-250. (which are IMO easier to use - don't need to put layers of tape on them afterward).

                https://www.ecmweb.com/content/elect...kills-lost-art recommends2 layers of cambric tape (sticky side out on first layer so can easily remove tape without residue later if needed), 4 layers of rubber tape, and 2 layers of vinyl tape on split bolts.

                Comment

                • bcroe
                  Solar Fanatic
                  • Jan 2012
                  • 5203

                  #83
                  Originally posted by azdave

                  Maybe I'm misunderstanding your mod but isn't that just like using the "circulation" setting on the fan selection switch? My thermostat has that feature and it randomly turns only the blower on and off throughout the day to keep the air feeling fresh and the filters collecting dust. You aren't still running an old, round, gold-colored Honeywell with the mercury tilt switch are you?
                  You are kidding, right? You are asking someone who daily drives a 1977 (police equipped)
                  Oldsmobile, and measures KWH with a spinning disc meter. Technology proved reliable
                  over decades.

                  No I never have seen such a circulation thermostat. Can you set the run and pause times?
                  Maybe the thermostat for my 2014 heat pump (deceased) actually could do that, but I would
                  never trust that battery powered electronic marvel with keeping my pipes from freezing
                  while I am away. That heat pump quit every 2 years, and I am NOT expecting much better
                  from its wonder thermostat.

                  When they put in the 2014 heat pump, I ran a new thermostat cable for it NEXT TO MY
                  ROUND, GOLD COLORED, MERCURY SWITCH thermostat and told them not to touch
                  it, just connect to the furnace blower terminals. SHE (who drives a Honda at 437,000 miles)
                  is in complete agreement.

                  AMANA.JPG

                  Lately I have been considering removing the deceased 2014 and its thermostat, but
                  SHE likes the inside/outside digital temp readout. Bruce Roe
                  Last edited by bcroe; 08-28-2019, 10:43 PM.

                  Comment

                  • bcroe
                    Solar Fanatic
                    • Jan 2012
                    • 5203

                    #84
                    Originally posted by foo1bar
                    There are - I'm just not seeing that they're any cheaper than the screw-down splices like
                    IT-250. (which are IMO easier to use - don't need to put layers of tape on them afterward).

                    https://www.ecmweb.com/content/elect...kills-lost-art recommends
                    2 layers of cambric tape (sticky side out on first layer so can easily remove tape without
                    residue later if needed), 4 layers of rubber tape, and 2 layers of vinyl tape on split bolts.
                    The aluminum direct burial wire arrived, 288 lb for 300 foot Triplex. Looks like
                    most of the connections can go straight into my box terminals, 2 of the 6 will
                    need to be reduced to 2 gauge copper to go into a 100A breaker. It came with
                    some so called lugs on the end, but they are useless. I put some 4 Ga they are
                    replacing in the pic for comparison.

                    Probably a spring project, should get me 700 KWH a year that now burn up in
                    adequate but inefficient, small wire. And avoid inverter HV trip. Bruce Roe

                    Triplex1.JPGTriplex2.JPG

                    Comment

                    • Mike90250
                      Moderator
                      • May 2009
                      • 16020

                      #85
                      Those lugs are unbelievable. Someone should go to jail for that. Pure and simple arson.
                      Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
                      || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
                      || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

                      solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
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                      Comment

                      • foo1bar
                        Solar Fanatic
                        • Aug 2014
                        • 1833

                        #86
                        Originally posted by bcroe
                        It came with some so called lugs on the end, but they are useless.
                        Wow.....

                        I would inspect every inch of the length of that wire.
                        Make sure there are no cuts in the insulation, no spots where it's been smashed, no kinks, etc.
                        Make sure there's nothing else to make you think that the wire has been mistreated.



                        Comment

                        • bcroe
                          Solar Fanatic
                          • Jan 2012
                          • 5203

                          #87
                          Originally posted by foo1bar
                          Wow.....
                          I would inspect every inch of the length of that wire.
                          Make sure there are no cuts in the insulation, no spots where it's been smashed, no kinks, etc.
                          Make sure there's nothing else to make you think that the wire has been mistreated.
                          Will do that inspection. Perhaps initially, and after a year, will do a leakage test to ground at
                          operating voltage. Expectation is something like 10 micro amps, at 250V that amounts to
                          0.022 KWH per year loss. Something entirely different would be bad.

                          Will also check for warm connections, as before. And voltage drop. Bruce Roe

                          Comment

                          • bcroe
                            Solar Fanatic
                            • Jan 2012
                            • 5203

                            #88
                            Originally posted by Ampster

                            I would use a split bolt because I wouldn't trust a wedge to stay under various temperature changes. . If the copper and aluminum are fresh just cover them with antioxident. I use a product called NoAlox. Often available at Home Centers under Ideal or Gardner Bender brands. Electrical supply houses carry it too.
                            The NoAlox is here. I solved the 4/0 4/0 2/0 termination problem at the inverter end by
                            upgrading the inverter sub panel from a 100A to a 200A. This panel takes those wires
                            directly, and will become the main feed at the inverter shed when the big wire is in place.

                            Cannot do this at the other end, the 4/0 pair must be reduced enough into a 100A breaker.
                            Bruce Roe

                            S225boxDone.JPG
                            Last edited by bcroe; 09-18-2019, 12:16 PM.

                            Comment

                            • Ampster
                              Solar Fanatic
                              • Jun 2017
                              • 3650

                              #89
                              That was a simple solution for the inverter side. It also reduced the number of connections.
                              9 kW solar, 42kWh LFP storage. EV owner since 2012

                              Comment

                              • bcroe
                                Solar Fanatic
                                • Jan 2012
                                • 5203

                                #90
                                Originally posted by bcroe
                                The aluminum direct burial wire arrived, 288 lb for 300 foot Triplex. Looks like
                                most of the connections can go straight into my box terminals, 2 of the 6 will
                                need to be reduced to 2 gauge copper to go into a 100A breaker.
                                Think I solved the transition of 4/0 AL to 1/0 CU house end of my triplex AL
                                buried cable. These terminals are designed for AL or CU 200A circuit, mounted
                                on half inch bakelite. They came from my 200A meter boxes, in the center to
                                splice the neutral wires together. I removed them (as many probably do)
                                because that wire runs straight thru, no connection. No bucks spent. The
                                house end distribution box already has a suitable N terminal for that wire.

                                Here the 1/0 is already wired to the (4 position) 100A breaker, 4/0 AL will come in
                                on the right. Until the project completes next spring, the 80A breaker just above
                                will continue to feed through adequate but less efficient 4 gauge.

                                Oh I discovered a RANDOM blower operation mode for my electronic
                                thermostat. I still would not use it, my unit is not random, can set and modified
                                times as I decide

                                Bruce Roe

                                4010trans.JPG4010cover.JPG
                                Last edited by bcroe; 10-05-2019, 12:44 PM.

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